A Guide to Create This Festive Chestnut Dessert: A Recipe
The holiday, ice-cold chestnut-based dessert has its origins with the great 19th-century chef Antonin Carême, who conceded the fact that this luxurious dish was the work of Monsieur Mony, chef for a Russian diplomat Nesselrode. It was paired with hot, boozy custard, though it is just enough by itself. It forms an excellent holiday centrepiece.
Prep 15 min
Soak Overnight
Cook 20 min
Freeze 2 hr+
Serves 6
125g currants, or alternatively dried grapes or sultanas
50g good-quality candied peel, minced
75ml maraschino, or another fortified wine you like (see step 2)
1 vanilla bean, split, or 1 tsp vanilla extract
600ml heavy cream
4 egg yolks
50g superfine sugar
45g flaked almonds
125g whole peeled cooked chestnuts, or chestnut paste
1 Regarding the Dried Fruits
Put the currants and peel and peel in a bowl. Mony's recipe reportedly included contained currants and raisins (though other dried grapes, or indeed any chopped dried fruit you prefer, is suitable), as well as citron peel, the skin of a particular citrus fruit. This is sold online, just like other glacé fruits that are superior compared to those tough, oily pieces found in supermarkets.
2 Regarding the Alcohol
Pour in the chosen spirit: maraschino, a traditional Italian sour cherry liqueur, serves as the traditional selection, though alternate versions employ an orange triple sec, brandy with noyaux, a nutty liqueur using apricot pits, or a blend of the cherry liqueur with dark rum. Madeira, sherry, port wine, among others, would also be suitable, also. Marinate the dried fruit mixture for a few hours, or for the night.
3 Steep the Heavy Cream
About an hour prior to starting, slit the vanilla pod lengthwise then take the tip of a knife to extract the vanilla caviar. Put these seeds and the empty pod to a pot with the cream, warm slowly until it reaches a gentle simmer, and then switch off the heat and leave to steep. (In case of using vanilla extract, add it and use at once.)
4 Combine the Caster Sugar and Egg Yolks
Put the egg yolks in a mixing bowl by the cooker (freeze the remaining whites for cocktails or baked goods). Carefully heat again the vanilla cream until it returns to a near-boil. At the same time, beat the caster sugar together with the yolks (for those with a preference for sweeter desserts, consider to add more the measure of caster sugar to seventy-five grams).
5 Add the Hot Cream
Take out the vanilla bean pod from within the cream, then gradually whisk the warm, infused cream into the bowl with the egg yolk bowl. Tip back to the saucepan, set it on a medium-low flame and cook, stirring constantly, to the point where the mix reaches a coating consistency so that a visible trail can be drawn in it on the underside of the spoon. Set the saucepan in a sink filled with cold water to cool.
6 Process the Chestnuts
At this stage, lightly cook the almonds over dry heat until they become golden brown. In the case of peeled chestnuts, process them in a food processor, or grind into a fine powder in a mortar.
Strain off the fruit, add the alcohol to the processed chestnuts and whizz again until uniform paste (should the mixture be too thick, incorporate a little of the cooled custard to thin it out). If using chestnut puree, gently fold into it the spirit.
7 Prepare the Ice Cream
Transfer the creamy chestnut puree in a big basin, next bit by bit whisk with the chilled custard until thoroughly mixed. Process in an ice cream churner till semi-solid texture. Alternatively, pour to a robust container suitable for freezing, cover and chill for about 60 minutes, then take a hand mixer or a spoon to whisk vigorously. Do this again approximately every 30 minutes until thickened and almost set.
8 Incorporate the Fruit and Nuts
When the ice-cream is thick and semi-frozen, carefully stir the soaked and drained fruit and toasted almonds through it till thoroughly incorporated. Prepare a two-pint mould or loaf tin with plastic wrap and spoon the ice-cream inside (or use a lightly oiled specialty tin).
Compact the mixture and fold the clingfilm across the top to cover.