🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary achievement.